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Kafirs of Hindukush

Itinerary:

Islamabad - Chitral - Bomburet - Chitral - Mastuj - Miragram - Mastuj - Shandur Pass - Phandar - Yasin - Gupis - Gilgit - Karimabad - Skardu - Shiger - Khaplu - Hushe - Khaplu - Skardu - Islamabad
Duration:

17 days / 16 nights
Price:

on request

Kalash Kafirs: Kalash literally means ‘wearers of black robes’ once associated with a large group of people spread across into Afghanistan. The part in Afghanistan is called Nuristan – the land of lighted people. Nuristan prior to invasion in 1895 by the Emir or King of Afghanistan was known as Kafiristan – land of infidels. At that time Emir of Afghanistan was facing struggle of survival after his progressive reforms were rejected by the clergy and in order to dampen their anger he waged a so called ‘Holy War’ against the Kafirs forcing their conversion to Islam by power and bribe.
Infact prior to the invasion of Kafiristan Surgeon Major GS Robertson had visited in 1893. He wrote interesting intercourse with Kafirs an authoritative account in his book called ‘Kafirs of Hindukush’ writes about their daily life, character and their rituals. His was infact first ever visit of any western traveller into Kafiristan valleys. Kafirs living on the Afghan part were called ‘Red Kafirs’ due to their fair complexion while Kalash the Black Kafirs were considered lower in order and wore black robes and were living in the domains of British India, the part of Chitral State which is now Pakistani territory. Being on British Indian territory they survived the purges of Emir of Afghanistan. But then at the time of ‘Holy War’ interestingly many Red Kafirs fled across into British Indian part to escape prosecution. They are found settled in all the three Kalash valleys at the end of each village and maintain their identity. Though they are also converted to Islam in due course of time as they had kept their relation across the border.
Kalash are subdivided into three valleys, Bomburet, the biggest and wider, Rumbur is the smallest while Birir is more orthodox adhering to Kalash religious belief. The villages in these valleys are mostly built as huge wooden structures artfully clinging to a mountain slope or to cliffs. Nuristani or Shaykh villages at the end of each valley are artfully carved very true to Nuristani architecture where a well know village called Kamdesh is most beautiful and known for wood work.

Kalash pantheon is a low form of idolatry with every village having wooden effigies of various gods put at a prominent village. Their rituals and religious practices and presence of many deities could be early form of Vedic rituals or beliefs. The chief deity and the supreme called ‘Mahadeo’ is placed above a village and its abode is the site of various sacrifices. Groma or place of worship is a large room built of huge logs from pine or cedar trees. This place is mostly used in winter months when outside when outside is cold. Kalash celebrate four annual festivals: Chilimjusht – the spring festival from May 13-16 marks the beginning of spring season and is the time to start tiling the fields. Pul is celebrated in Sep on a full moon day – this marks finishing the work at fields when the produce is gathered. Uchau is celebrated in Oct marks the collection of grapes, apples and shedding of walnuts and collection of corn. This also marks the preparation of wine which is kept in cellars or wooden store houses – box looking.
Chaumas – the mid-winter Dec-Jan festival which is indoors and celebrated with final vigour by drinking the already matured wines and sacrificing goats to gods.

Ritual dancing and chants: Every ritual or religious ceremony starts with a sacrifice of goat by the chief priest who utters few chants. On important occasions these sacrifices are followed by ritual dances and chants – well Kalash have lost meanings of their ritual practices but they know these are for enticing a certain deity or god. Sometimes trees are considered as abodes of their deities. They are basically animist believers where as each act of nature is associated with a certain deity. The beliefs are a mixture of Vedic and Avestan practices in their nascent ages. They could have emigrated from the Caucasus region as their burial practices are similar to some early group of nomadic people. They dress the decease in full garb and place it in a wooden coffin which is then placed at an isolated hillside and revisited after certain period of time celebrating the freedom from worldly luxuries to heaven. Normally in the olden times they used to place an effigy signifying the dead person and elaborated with fine wood carving according to the status of the deceased.

Tour program

Itinerary of «Kafirs of Hindukush»

Day 01: Arrive Islamabad – Flt
Meeting on arrival assistance and transfer to Hotel Pearl Continental (immediate
rooms)
Afternoon sightseeing tour of Islamabad visit Shakerpanrian see the Institute of Folk
Heritage, later drive to the top view point for a general view of capital city, continue
down through the main streets looking at various landmarks and buildings. See the
Crescent and Star emblem, drive to Foreign Ministry, the Diplomatic enclave, State Bank
of Pakistan, the Parliament House, Supreme Court building, President’s Palace and the
group of Central Secretariat Buildings
Later we shall drive to a model village of Saidpur, had been spared removal to show
how Islamabad was 57 years ago. Later continue to Faisal Mosque with its typical
Turkish architecture
Welcome dinner at mountain view Restaurant
Overnight

Day 02: Islamabad/Chitral – PK660 – 1115/1225 hrs
Chitral/Bomburet – 30 kms
morning transfer to airport for flight to Chitral on arrival transfer to Chitral Town – we shall
take a short walk through the town while in the meantime to prepare the permit for visit of
Kalash Valleys
Lunch at local TirichMir Hotel restaurant
Afterwards short walking tour of Chitral – we shall start with visit of White Mosque, Chitral
Fort and later through bazaar
Afterwards depart for Bomburet Kalash valley – on arrival transfer to Guest House,
Bomburet
Dinner and overnight

Day 03: Bomburet
Morning we shall have walking tour of Batrik and Anish village Kalash villages – it will be
an interesting opportunity to visit their houses and places of worship to know about
Kalash pantheon the mill houses and schools. These are great photo ops. keeping in
view the customs and traditions of Kalash people.
After lunch at the Guest House we shall proceed on excursion to Rumbur village the
second Kalash village
later return to your hotel
Dinner and overnight

Day 04: Bomburet/Chitral – 30 kms
Morning we shall depart for Chitral make short visit of Birir valley – after wards see Guru
village proceed to Chitral.
On arrival transfer to Hotel
We shall see a strong Chitral Fort built probably in 14th century by a local ruler of Chitral, Nadir Shah
Depending on the season there is always probability of Polo Game in the late afternoon
Also visit local Museum
Overnight

Day 05: Chitral/Mastuj – 112 kms
morning we shall drive up to Birmoglasht above Chitral town for grand views of
Tirichmir Peak(7708m) – this is also reserve for Capra Falconeri (Markhor)
Later drive back to your hotel and depart for Mastuj enroute stop at view point of
Bunizom peak(6542m) above the village of Buni. We shall have lunch at local house
with local cuisine
Continue to Mastuj – on arrival transfer to local Guest House
Later walks in the village
Overnight

Day 06: Mastuj/Miragram/Mastuj
Today we shall make day excursion up in the valley to Miragram village – enroute we
shall make stops at beautiful view points with grand mountain scenery of Hindukush
region prominent peaks of Tirichmir and Bunizom in the southwest. The valley is called
Yarkhun valley which was thoroughfare for the people of upper Pamir and Wakhan
region. This valley is an important outlet for people of the mountains whose abode lies in
the highest glaciated zone. Make stops to visit the local homes and perhaps shall have a
meal will be great occasion to interact with the people of Hindukush
return in the late afternoon
Overnight

Day 07: Mastuj/Shandur Pass/Phandar/Yasin/Gupis – 145 kms
We leave Chitral district drive up to Shandur Pass (3734m) – on top of the valley we shall
see the distance Hindu Raj and then Hindukush drifting more in the north merging closer
to Pamir ranges. We can still see the foot path which was once the route of Chitral relief
force led by Major Kelley in 1895. It was mid March and the pass was full of snow so
much so that it had become difficult for the pony driven cannons to trudge through heavy
snow and even some coolies deserted due extreme weather and fear of being killed by
Chitralis. However Major Kelley’s force made it in time lift the siege of Chitral Fort which
had continued for 45 days.
This is also an interesting crossing point from Khowar speaking villages into the Shinaki
and Burusashki speakers of Gilgit and surrounding valleys. We shall enter into more
greener land with simmering lakes and rivers. We shall make a short rest at Phandar
Lake overlooking the beautiful valley for Lunch. As we descent into more populated
parts of the valley. The rivers are teeming with trout brown and rainbow species. As we
head more deeper into the valley we keep seeing the change of views.
On arrival at Gupis transfer to local Guest House
Later we shall leave for Yasin valley following the river passing through various villages
we shall arrive at Tawoos village with beautiful views of Hinudraj Peaks
later return to Gupis
Overnight

Day 08: Gupis/Gilgit/Karimabad – 220 kms
morning depart for Gilgit we shall enrotue visit Bubur village – once known for its
Zoroastrian people and special grape made nut bars – later continue to visit Sher Qila
once main village of Punial valley. We shall continue to Gilgit – visit Gilgit bazaar the old
hanging bridge, Kargah 8th century rock carved Buddha.
After Lunch we shall proceed to Hunza valley – enroute stop near Rakaposhi Peak view
(7788m) on arrival at Karimabad, transfer to Serena Inn
Overnight

Day 09: Karimabad Hunza Valley
We shall spend a leisurely day walking upto Baltit village and Baltit Fort – the houses in
Baltit are reminiscent of old village made of mud and stones and the old mill house is still
there though not so much in use as it used to be but still working. It is a great sight in
summer months to see ladies bringing their produce at the mill house, gossiping and
laughing. Also under the walnut trees we may see elders sitting around talking about
daily life. Then slow walk up to Baltit Fort once home to former Mirs or rulers of Hunza.
Afterwards we shall drive to Altit village and Fort. Altit Fort constructed on rock precipice overlooking the river below and perhaps the caravan road which once carried goods from Yarkand to Leh to Kashmir. This was acting as a look out post for raiding the caravans
as was the rule of the day until 1869. We shall walk through the village and later drive up
to Duikar for panoramic views and late afternoon tea.
Later return to Karimabad
Overnight

Day 10: Karimabad/Gilgit – 110 kms
morning departure for Gilgit – we shall make several short stops near the best views of
Rakaposhi peak and villages down below
On arrival transfer to Hotel Gilgit Serena
After lunch we shall make short tour of Gilgit – see the old bridge of Gilgit and walk along
the old street, later visit the commissioner/s house used to be the British Political Agent’s
residence and office, afterwards we shall make a short stop at the British cemetery – see
the grave of Hayward, the British explorer who was assassinated on the high pass of
Darkot. In the late afternoon we might see a polo match as is customary, this game is
often played on daily basis among local teams
Overnight

Day 11: Gilgit/Skardu/Shiger – 232 kms
morning we shall depart for the most densely mountainous region of Skardu valley also
known as little Ladakh. There will be short stops enroute as we follow river Indus through
its narrowest gorge seeing the frenzy of glacial waters.
On arrival in Skardu after a brief stop for Lunch at local restaurant we shall proceed
further to the gateway to the mountain throne, Shiger. After re-crossing the Indus river
we had to Shiger through desert stony drive on arrival transfer to Shiger Serena
Residence – beautifully conversion from old traditional fortress the home of former rajas
of Shiger valley. Time permitting we can have a short stroll around the residence
Overnight

Day 12: Shiger/Khaplu – 132 kms
Wes shall spend the morning visiting Khaplu village see the old mosque, Imambarga and
meet local folks in the village. It will interesting to see the wooden structures in typical
Ladakhi architecture though Muslim but still retaining Buddhist symbolism in construction
designs. After lunch at our residence depart for Khaplu, retracing to main road and
continue through desolate scenery. We shall leave the vast expanse of Indus which flows
down from Kharmang valley over Kargil. Now continue along Shyok River as proceed
closer we shall see numerous Balti village. On arrival transfer to Serena Khaplu
Residence – yet another beautifully converted residence of the former rulers this is a
beautiful place with nice views all around.
We shall make short walks to the grand mosque called Chaqchan Mosque is finest
example of Ladakhi/Tibetan architecture with admixture of Persian designing. The
mosque built in 14th century when Islam spread in this region by Mir Sayid Ali Hamadani
who led the Sufi order of Kibrawiyya later passed by his disciple to Sufi Saint Syed Mir
Muhammad Nurbaksh who came from Kashmir to Baltistan. His order projects pursuit of
middle order between Sunni and Shia thoughts.
Overnight

Day 13: Khaplu/Hushe/Khaplu
In the morning we shall embark upon in the neighbourhood of mount K-2 however we are
too close view the great mountain but we can see Masherbrum peak (7821m). This will
be very interesting road drive with mighty Karakorum range around us have some
striking moments once we reach Machlu village with its wooden mosques and houses.
We shall continue till Hushe village at the end of the road drive – this is a popular
trekking point over Gandoghoro-la to Baltoro Glacier to Concordia further to the base of
mount K-2
We shall spend time walk into the village meet the local folks and see their way of life.
After Lunch at Little Karim’s Guest House we shall return to Khaplu
Later walks in Khaplu to meet the local folks see the other mosques
Overnight

Day 14: Khaplu/Skardu – 118 kms
Morning drive back to Skardu – on arrival we shall transfer to Hotel One
Lunch at hotel and then leave for Sadpara Lake – our first stop will be at the Manthal
village near Sadpara to walk up to a huge boulder with craved image of Buddhas – Adi
Buddha surrounded of other images of Buddha – Adi Buddha is carved in bhumispara
Mudra (touching the earth) surrounded by other smaller dates from 8th AD. The period
from 8th to 9th century AD we hear of Tibetan invasions into these parts extending upto
Gilgit. After visiting the rock we shall drive further down to Sadpara to see the lake
later return to Skardu – visit the local bazaar
Overnight

Day 15: Skardu/Islamabad – Flt
Morning transfer to airport for flight to Islamabad – this is a spectacular flight through
and over the mountains with a sea of highest concentration high mountains
on arrival transfer to Hotel Pearl Continental
free at leisure
Overnight

Day 16: Islamabad
Morning excursion to Taxila – we shall visit the site dating back from 5th BC to 5th AD
We shall visit the site of Dharmarajika the Oldest Stupa dates from 1st AD, later drive to
the second city of Taxila – Sirkap 1st BC to 1st AD – see city plan, the shrine of Double
Headed Eagle, the Acropolis Hill and court of smaller stupa shrine. Afterwards proceed
to Jaulian Buddhist monastery perched on a hill – see the best preserved stupa court
and monastery quarters. Afterward we shall drive to Mohra Moradu, the royal monastery
has a beautiful stupa in a cell still surviving since 5th AD
Lunch at local restaurant
We shall then visit the beautifully laid out Archaeological Museum of Taxila exhibiting
artefacts from 1st BC to 5th AD
later return to Islamabad
Farewell Dinner at local restaurant
Overnight

Day 17: Islamabad/Depart – Flt
Transfer to airport for your destination flight – assistance on departure
Details

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